POPULAR SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
Vitamin C
Antioxidants
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is one of the top ingredients in the industry. It can provide a wide variety of benefits such as protecting against free radical damage, lightening hyperpigmentation, smoothing fine lines, and boosting collagen production. Think of Vitamin C as your anti-aging best friend and lipid barrier protector.
Bakuchiol
Antioxidants
Vitamin C
An all natural alterntive to retinol that increases your cell turnover rate, without the sensitivities or down time. It is packed full of antioxidants that soften, smooth, and even skin tone. It is also great at protecting your lipid barrier from environmental exposure.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
The holy grail of free radical protection. Antioxidants are most often found in fruits and vegetables. They are used in skin care products to protect and strengthen your skin. Antioxidants stimulate collagen production, reverse signs of aging, improve hydration, and even reduce inflammation. The most common antioxidant is Vitamin C.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are a group of acids that are used for exfoliation. The most common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and Malic Acid. They remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin while binding water to add hydration. Other benefits include anti-aging, evening skin tone, and promoting blood flow to the surface of your skin.
Squalene
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Salicylic Acid
Squalene can be derived from olives and added to skin care products for moisturization. Squalene occurs naturally in the skin and makes up about 12% of the lipids that retain moisture. By adding it to products, you can ensure your skin has the essential oils it needs to maintain strength in the lipid barrier.
Salicylic Acid
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Salicylic Acid
Considered to be "Draino" for the pores. Salicylic Acid is a well known acne treatment that reduces swelling, clears blocked pores, and dissolves excess sebum. It can be sourced from several plants or fruits such as licorice root, strawberries, and willow bark.
UNDERSTANDING SKINCARE PRODUCT LABELS
All About Labels
When you look at the back of your skincare products, it can feel like you are reading an entire dictionary worth of words with no description. What does all of it mean? Get ready for some skin care label education.
Ingredients are usually listed in order of weight, with the most concentrated ingredients first. Ingredients that make up less than 1% of the product's formula may be listed in any order after that. Typically, water will be listed as the top ingredient due to it's importance in activating certain ingredients. Next, active ingredients that provide the results and are marketed as key ingredients to treat or protect your skin. Followed by "Filler" ingredients that produce volume, improve texture, and maintain consistency throughout the product. Lastly, stabilizers, penetration enhancers, and preservatives that keep your skincare products fresh and reduce potency decline.
SULFATES... LET'S TALK ABOUT THEM
Sodium Lauryth Sulfate (SLS) vs Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
There are different types of sulfates used in the skincare industry. Sodium Lauryth Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). While both of them are considered safe for use and sound similar, they are not the same!
Sodium Lauryth Sulfate (SLS) is well known and typically avoided in the industry. It is a salt of sulfuric acid. SLS is a surfactant that is effective at washing away dirt and excess oil, but it can be overstripping and sensitizing to certain individuals. With prolonged exposure, you may notice an increase in irritation and in some cases you may develop dermatitis.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is a surfectant derived from SLS through a process called ethoxylation that reworks the structure of the compound making it safer to use on the skin. This process breaks down and reorganizes the compound making it much kinder to the skin. Unlike SLS, Sodium Laureth Sulfate is less likely to aggravate your skin or strip it of any excess moisture. When combined with ingredients such as Aloe Vera, Limonene, and Linolool, it lowers the risk of irritation even more. The way that Sodium Laureth Sulfate is created in the manufacturing process also increases the safety of the ingredient. Ensuring that it is correctly formulated and regulated is important, as with all other ingredients in the skincare production process.
There are subtypes of Laureths that are restructured through repeating the ethyxlation that changes the build up of the molecules to perform different functions.
Laureth Sulfate Type Examples
Laureth-4: Emulsyifying agent
Laureth-23- Water soluble cleansing agent
Laureth-9: Topically used to add hydration
MIPA-Laureth Sulfate: Used as a cleansing agent. Derived from coconut oil with (SLES).
The list goes on and on, but you get the idea.
Why do we need surfectants?
Surfectants are the primary cleansing ingredient of a skincare products formula. They allow for dirt, debris, and excess oil to be removed and rinsed away from the surface of the skin. Surfectants also provide that foamy consistency we all love through emulsification and enhance the spreadability of the product.
While sulfates have earned a bad reputation in the industry, it is important to note the differences and the reason you may see it on your skincare product labels. All skin is different and being aware of each ingredient helps to narrow down which ingredient may have caused your concerns in the past and also prepare you for the future products you implement into your routine. Now that you have a source to reference and explain the difference, certain formulas include Sodium Laureth Sulfates and Laureth derivatives NOT Sodium Lauryl Sulfates. Ambivalent Skincare strives to provide all the resources you need to better understand you skin care products.